Chapter 4 – In The Dark

"The Ice Lake is pure crystal water although I was expecting ice to be in the lake like its name!"

We could feel the emptiness of Nitesh and Sarthak’s absence and it was kind of sad that we 3 had to continue the journey on our own. At 3pm, an Indo-canadian doctor held an acclimatization class where he taught about the basic things. That very day we hiked to Gangapurna and back. I was still feeling low because I was the only one who had gotten close to Nitesh in this trip but I had to get over it. We were stuck at Manang for 2 whole days so now we really needed to get going. The 3 of us were in a dilemma, we debated over either going to the Ice Lake (4500m) or Tilicho Lake (4700m) which we could’ve have gone if not for the boys’ disapproval. Lucky for us, we made a new friend in the hotel. Her name was Bii Ngoc Han who was originially from Vietnam but lived in Australia. Our meeting with Bii was weird. I was wearing my usual gorilla cap for breakfast at the dining hall when she complimented my hat saying it was cool. I asked her if she was having breakfast and she stuttered slowly replying that she had. When I asked her how was Nepal so far she whited out in nervousness. Sensing her behavior I asked if she could tell me what happened.

"The Ice Lake and a red coat man- I stand out lol!"

Bii had come all the way from Australia to trek the Annapurna Circuit and she met with some guys who linked her up with a company where she could hire a guide and potter to accompany her through her journey along with another dude. That’s when everything went downhill for her; she woke up to find that the men had left her in the hotel with only her bag pack whereas her valuable stuff and laptop was with them. She was stranded in the middle of her trek with nothing because she was slowing them down in the trail. She had no money or any idea where to go next which is terrifying as a woman in an unknown place. Helping a fellow traveller in times of trouble is a common courtesy amongst ourselves so thanks to Kabir and Freddie agreeing that we help her; we invited her to join us to the Ice Lake. She was hesitant at first due to the trauma with her guide and potter ditching her but we assured that we would support her till she reached Pokhara safely. A depressing incident but she was thankful for our help and agreed to join us to the Ice Lake.

"Bii- the sweetheart we met en route and would later become friends going on the same journey. She’s from Australia of the Vietnamese descent."

As a kid I had no idea what backpacking or even travelling was so every time I saw the hippie looking people who were headed to the mountains with huge bags on their back I would wonder, “ where are they headed to? Who are they? What’s in that big bag?” and I would have endless questions in my mind. But here I am years later doing the same thing and its never felt more better. I was clear about my vision; I wanted to bike all over these places rather than walk or trek. If I travel, I go big or go home.

"I was the last man standing from Beards and Bicycles although all my friends had discontinued, I kept going and this is at Yakkharka."

Day 8 of our journey to the Annapurna Circuit and we were finally prepared to leave Manang. Next up was Churi Ledar and our bags were getting heavier the more we ascended further. We luckily managed a porter for Rs. 2500 from Manang to Ledar and started earlier than usual. The way to Ledar was windy and sunny at once but Ledar was actually dark and cold that reminded me of Danaque- the zombie land. Graham, a Canadian traveller joined our team in the hotel we were staying at. That night we met Ross; he was like the real American dude, scruffy beard and stinky socks but he was hilarious and daring who thought the cold here was nothing. In fact he crossed the whole patch of ice in just his leather jacket, normal jeans and boots! He was crazy and so was the stench of his socks that filled the entire dining hall.

"A long hike to the Ice Lake- behind me are the massifs Annapurna I and II."

We were at Yak Kharka when Kabir and Freddie told me that they wanted out from the remaining trip. Kabir said that he was exhausted and he could not go anyther further than here. I was devastated- we had come so far and yet again my friends would not make it with me. I knew I was okay because my body was clean from any substances or smoke. Even if I was chubby I was healthy and athletic but to have the rest of the boys give up made me sad. “If it’s your luggage we can hire more potters to carry it.” I suggested but Kabir had made up his mind. Once he makes up his mind there was no use persuading him so I had let both Kabir and Freddie go. To be honest they were extremely fatigued and I didn’t want to push anyone if they didn’t want to.