“The picture on the top-left is world’s highest post office (4440m). This is where Yuri sent a postcard for his mom.”
Yuri pointed at Zostle. A Zostle in Kaza. Nevertheless, I didn’t have much hope for an internet hotspot. Yuri seemed quite confident. I was sure there wasn’t one but that didn’t stop him from inquiring about a possible Wifi hotspot. We were greeted by a Delhi girl at reception. To my surprise they did have internet service there. We decided to have our lunch here. As usual it was tomato soup and bread for Yuri. However, staying here was going to be expensive. And as usual we explored the idea of going further!
“Riding a bike this long requires strength beyond strength.”
While we were discussing the Delhi girl at reception rejected the idea that we should head toward Kibber or Losar. However, she did advise us to go to Komic, the oldest village in India, or perhaps to toward Hikkim wherein was the highest point with a fully functioning post office. Perhaps, we could also head toward Langza. All this while in almost all the maps and brochures of Leh that I had encountered I was always greeted by a Buddha statue. I always wondered where it was and it turned out that it was in Langza.
We decided to head toward Komic. The uphill roads was like a gateway to a different world. The long never ending roads were majestic but it was taking a toil on us. He suggested that we return back to Kaza. The sun began to set but we were no where near to our journey. We just had cold winds to accompany us. Right then something emerged from the woods. A unique creature seemed to jump out randomly. I switched off the bike to make no sound. I wanted the animal to not be threatened by us. A cute fox with the cutest set of ears hopped and looked back at us. Yuri tried to take his camera out. However, I had a very cliched moment where I told him somethings are better left just to the eyes. We were tranced by the fox’s movement. Every so often it would look back at us just as amused by us as we were of it.
The tension between us was increasing as we still didn’t quite see our destination. Along the way we saw a lady across to the other side of the hill. I asked her in Hindi where Komic was and she gave us the direction even though its was difficult to hear her properly. I boasted about how handy I was having known the native language. Yuri didn’t respond. Perhaps he was in no mood to answer back. But in all honestly, I had no idea what the lady had responded. I couldn’t quite hear her. Hence I lied confidently that I had indeed heard her. A risk I was willing to take.
“Getway to Komic Village.”
Eventually we did reach Komic. We just wanted a place to sleep. Once we found a place for ourselves we looked around. There were a few Delhi boys enjoying trance music while local Rajasthani’s invited us in their tents. Yuri had some weed and paranoia set in. I advised him to head toward his room. I made sure I went to the boys who’d set up tents as courtesy. Once I was back in our room I saw Yuri was still paranoid. He was calling his mother out. I told him to just sleep. While it was really really cold the tiredness in my body just put me to deep slumber. The next morning we left without saying goodbye to any of the acquaintances we’d met last night. We had a destination in mind. Keylong. We had to reach there anyhow. But before we departed we left a note saying Yuri and Rajat were here just in case Tizi and Simon decided to show up.
On our way back we went to Hikkim where the post office was open. A post office at the highest point possible. Yuri wrote a postcard for his mom. It was such a sweet gesture that I hope the postcard did reach his mom.
“A moment captured in Taglang La; world’s second highest and one of the most dangerous passes.”
Having set Keylong as our destination for the day we reached Kibber. It was just 9 in the morning and we were perhaps ahead of schedule in our view. Once we asked around how far Keylong was people responded by saying it was 120 kilometers. We were quite confident in our riding skills to reach Keylong. We’d set an easy target it seemed. However, what lay ahead made me question our judgement. We had no idea how rough the terrain was coupled with bumpy roads. If I had a genie I’d use all three wishes for a sleek road layered three times,
We did eventually manage to reach Grampu. A consolation prize but in a day where we rested for mere 5 minutes at a time, taking long breathes, and Maggi to help us warm our bodies in between, we were tested mentally and physically. By the time we reached Grampu I was drained. The only beacon of hope was that we had never been this close to Leh.
“Take the trademark wherever the trail-mark takes you.” I never miss to pose for the camera in this position when en route to every new place I visit.”
Ask any rider what’s one thing they dread on their journey and they’ll tell you unanimously that its the day of the pass. With that in mind we had to cross the dreaded Taglang La pass. Around 17,000 feet of elevation it is the second highest pass in Ladakh region of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Regardless, we trudged on. The ride became even more daunting once nature deemed it fit to escalate the difficulty. The sky sprinkled white fairy dust at us. The first snowfall I’d encountered on our journey and it came at a bad time. Yuri suggested that we leave our bike and find a vehicle to get on. He repeated that notion a fair few times. While it was scary I told him that we had to do this. There was no other way. I was extra careful during the ride. I had to be. I told Yuri we had to do it. Yuri came around the idea and said, “Fuck! We have to do this. Let’s do this. Crazy Nepali guy.”
And that we did. We safely maneuvered our way toward Leh. It was a terrifying but at the same time an exhilarating experience. When we reached Leh market. I just wanted some good coffee.
“Laying down in a bedful of white fairy dust.”
A one stop solution to reenergizing yourself? A long hot shower. It cures a lot of things. That’s what I opted for as soon as we found a room in Leh. We had heaps of dirty clothes that needed washing and we gave that for laundry. We’d reached Leh. We’d reached our destination. There was no time to dilly dally on the small stuff. We’d heard of a palace and we went for a hike there. In the evening just like all evenings we reflected on our journey so far. We’d crossed dangerous passes met intriguing people, and witnessed breathtaking views. The journey was not over though. We still had people to meet and places to go.
“Never ending long majestic roads.”
One of the places that I personally was excited to see was the Khardung La pass. I remember when I had crossed the Throung La Pass in Nepal I’d wandered where the next biggest pass. Once I found out there was indeed another pass higher than that In Ladakh the seeds of my Leh journey had been planted.
It felt like the journey just began. And so the journey still continues.
“Camp houses en route to Ladakh.”
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